Wild Walnut Chase

Goodbye, Kyrgyzstan

2010-04-25T16:25:00.018+06:00

I leave Kyrgyzstan in less than 24 hours, quite possibly forever. I'm sad. In many ways, I want to come home. I want to see Christy, my beautiful future wife, my family, and all my friends. But eight months is a long time, definitely long enough for some extraordinarily beautiful life to flow under the bridge. You can only find Kyrgyz warmth in Kyrgyzstan. There is unique and inexpressible beauty here in the mountains and rivers, trees, flowers, deserts and plains. Nobody in the US will fully comprehend the warmth and beauty I experienced here. It makes me lonely to think about that.

I'm a wanderer at heart. I distinctly remember crossing the border from Thailand into Myanmar five years ago. Walking into Myanmar was like walking into a different world, and although I was only there to stamp my passport in the visa renewal process, I desperately wanted to head deeper into that closed and mysterious land. Yes, I was lonely for home at that point. I'd been teaching at a refugee camp for several months. But the lure of a new land was far stronger than the pull for home. I've wandered through many countries by now--Nepal, Zimbabwe, Jordan, China, Belgium, the list goes on and on. So I guess Kyrgyzstan is just another chapter in my wanderings. But it is the longest chapter, and definitely the best.

But what made it the best? Christy. Though even she will never truly understand the beauty of Kyrgyzstan, she made it come alive for me. That's what love does. I'm still a wanderer at heart, but over the past eight months, I've discovered the allure of a precious and inexpressably beautiful woman. For all the beauty of Kyrgyzstan and strength of my wandering spirit, I desperately want to see Christy again. We'll become husband and wife on June 6. Nobody will ever fully comprehend the warmth and beauty of our relationship. It makes me extraordinarly happy and content to think about that.

Revolution

2010-04-21T17:22:00.003+06:00

Justice Department - strangely enough, this picture is NOT ironic for many of the Revolutionaries.

No comment....

My Walk to Work

2010-03-29T16:53:00.010+06:00

First, I step out into the courtyard area. Sometimes, I go right back in to take off or put on some more clothes, depending on the weather. Other times, I forge on to my own regret:)

Then I lock the gate door behind me. There's Mendeleeva 192 !
Then I strike off down the first stretch of Mendeleeva str. This short stretch is suprisingly empty of people. Usually, there are lots of people about, kids playing with battered bikes or less--sticks rocks, dirt piles--parents walking around with hugely fat and very cute little babies, and grandparents, sitting out on their chairs, doing nothing but watching the world go by for hours and hours...
Here's a view of it on a prettier day. The mountains surrounding Bishkek are quite spectacular.

The second bend of Mendeleeva parallells this old water pipe. Actually, it's probably still in use, for all I know. Little boys love to run down these pipes and jump from one to the other in surprising and impressive displays of balance and agility.
Here's a typical old Soviet era factory I pass on Mendeleeva. This is right at the bend between the two stretches of Mendeleeva. I think that part of the factory is still operational, because a sweet bakery smell comes wafting out of it on random days. Reminds me a little of the McKee smells from SAU...

Finally, I come to Gorky street, the longest stretch of my walk. Not long after hitting Gorky, I'll pass the Korean National House. This is the sign for it.And here it is:) I like passing the Korean national house on my way back, because it's a landmark letting me know I'm getting close to a warm house and a good supper.

And here's a view of Gorky street proper. You can see that it's not very populated out here. The downtown doesn't begin for another mile or soGorky in the snow.
Next comes the scary intersection. Sorry you can't see better, but it's basically a six laner with very short lights and very antsy drivers who always jump the gun. I've nearly gotten run over here a few times.

Here's the busy pedestrian stretch. This picture is really unusual. Most of the time, the sidewalk is full of students heading to a nearby highschool. They converge from various mashtrutka (taxi) routes on this one sidewalk. I've often come puffing and sweating past all these well-dressed, perfumed, flirting highschoolers on my morning runs. I must be a funny sight, because I carry a lunch in the side pocket of my coat. It pokes out at a sharp angle, giving me the initial look of a guy with a weird pot belly! Plus, I'm running, which is pretty crazy to them, especially when it's raining, icy, or snowy.
Here's the playground I stop at sometimes to do a few chin-ups.

This bridge is about the half-way point of my walk, soon after the playground where I do chin-ups
And finally, the Vefa center, at the intersection of Gorky and Soveitskaya. The University is right up Sovietskaya to the left of this picture (with a quick jaunt right on Mederova st.)

Soveitskaya in the snow

As you can tell, it takes quite a while for me to get to work. Usually it's about an hour walk.

Here's the university

Almaz Orozumbekov

2010-02-08T14:13:00.003+06:00

I first got in touch with Almaz more than a year ago. I was in the midst of my senior year and extremely busy with classes, medical school applications, and my Fulbright proposal. I was beginning to wonder whether I would ever find a strong affiliation when I came across a website with Almaz's contact information. I was soon in touch with his friends in the US, notably Dr Kurt Gottschalk. Then, I emailed Almaz, and called him several times.

From the very beginning, Almaz proved to be an exceptional communicator and contact. I am convinced that his letter of support was a deciding factor in my Fulbright award. Now after working with Almaz nearly every day for many months, he is more than just a good contact. He is also a good friend.

Almaz and I share a passion for networking, but I'm a neophyte next to Almaz. Most people have no idea what he accomplishes each day--myself included. All I know is that almost every country in Europe has representatives, colleagues, or students showing up at Almaz's office at the Kyrgyz National Agrarian University (KNAU). I can think of at least five US scientists woven into the mix as well. Then, let's not forget the contacts in Thailand, Korea, China, and a host of other Asian countries. He's a networking titan. Right now, Almaz has three students working at KNAU, a Pole, American, and Finn.

He's more than just a networker, however. He's an extremely active scientist, heavily involved in a diverse array of fields, including entomology, dendrochronology, and most recently, icthology! He just published an article about Gypsy moth in the American Entomologist: Orozumbekov, A.A., A.M. Liebhold, V.I. Ponomarev and P.C. Tobin. 2009.Gypsy moth (Lepidoptera: Lymantriidae) in Central Asia. AmericanEntomologist 55: 258-264

This American contact better get back to work for now :)

teacher

2010-01-15T15:57:00.004+06:00

Meet Fritz Hans Schweingruber Ph.D., undisputed king of dendroecology. I often turn to his seminal book "Tree Rings and Environment Dendroecology". Despite my ignorance of the many advanced statistical terms, Fritz remains remarkably understandable.

I've also been reading many scientific articles on dendroecology and dendrochronology. Schweingruber shows up in almost every paper, either as an author or in numerous citations. If that's not a sign of scholarly kingship, I don't know what is.

check out his website http://www.wsl.ch/staff/fritz.schweingruber/

Note:

dendroecology = tree ecology; dendrochronology = tree chronology i.e tree rings

Real Work

2010-01-06T10:58:00.005+06:00

After chasing walnuts in the beautiful forests of Jalalabad oblast, Kyrgyzstan, I am now chasing them in a laboratory in Bishkek. I scan walnut cores with an Epson V500 scanner and then measure and analyze them on my faithful Toshiba laptop. A normal day at the office includes far more than simply looking a tree rings, however. Research here (and probably everywhere) also involves a tremendous amount of communication. Four scientists work in the same room with me. Information buzzes in and out of our room in a host of avenues. Phones ring, keyboards rattle, hands shake, and doors swing, all in an exciting hive of active communication.

Here's Kyrgyz National Agrarian University and the office where I work

Update

2009-12-01T11:27:00.002+06:00

Blogspot has been unavailable here for several weeks. Hence the lack of regular posts. After the 2nd chase, I enjoyed a ten day visit from my parents, moved twice, learned how to prepare and analyze walnut cores, and submitted a National Geographic Young Explorer's Grant. Now, I am enjoying a more predictable schedule. For one thing, I'm living with a German family, but the main change is that I am spending my days at Kyrgyz Agrarian University rather than chasing walnuts all over Kyrgyzstan.

I am also starting to pick up some Russian. It helps that Victor and Maria speak about as much English as I speak Russian (next to none). We have fun, though, especially Victor and I. Just today, we figured out how to tell each other in our respective mother tongues that cold soup was good, but hot soup was better!

2nd chase

2009-10-23T15:49:00.020+06:00

We traveled to Osh on Thursday, October 8, and spent Friday meeting people and enjoying the city

A wonderful, restful trip to Kara-Oy national park (Saturday, October 10)

As a unique and unexplored forest, Salamalik was worth the visit (Sunday, October 11)

Wild apples refreshed my research exertions.

My faithful Finnish walnut corer at work

Staying in Kara-Alma (October 11-14) was tons of fun

A famous hunter and doting grandfather

The roads were rough, but at least we stayed on them.

Bolot's guest house in Gumkhana again! We slept and ate here October 14-16 (see below)

We arrived in Sary Chelek Biosphere Reserve on Friday, October 16 and returned to Bishkek on Monday, October 19.

I almost prefer the view through the trees

Perfection?

On the road back to Bishkek: Insert your own commentary

First Chase action shots

2009-10-01T20:21:00.016+06:00

Dr Malli Arardhya graciously shared all of his pictures from the trip. Malli did a better job of capturing the action than I did. Here are some of his shots (Click on them to get a bigger and clearer view)

In the heart of walnut country (Kara Elma)

Got have the dbh! (diameter at breast height)

Learning from the master

Increment borer in action

From Left to Right: Me, unknown, Hakim, Bolot, Respec, Almaz, Jomart, Malli (the guy squatting in front also unknown)

Feast at Gumkhana

From Left to Right: Siebek, Respec, me, and Malli

Inside a shrine atop Suleiman Tol, listening to a mullah say a prayer in Arabic.

Meal at rustic lodge on the drive from Bishkek to Osh

Atop the first pass, Bishkek-->Osh

Alpine Adventure

2009-09-30T09:51:00.011+06:00

Very high, hard, steep, long, beautiful, rewarding, dangerous climb to mountain pass, then discovery that our descent was impossible (nearly), then that the glacier was excessively long, followed by even longer treacherous moraine followed by an even longer slog through highland valley and finally dark stumble down mountain track to shepherd's hut--with phone! We called and got picked up.

First Chase

2009-09-22T08:17:00.013+06:00

Two pictures from September 12
This rock was supposed to remove back pain if you slid down it. We all slid down several times. It was fun.

I'll add more pictures to this post as time allows

Participants:
Almaz, Malli, Jomart, Respec, Toktoraliev, and many important and helpful forestry officials. Almaz is my Kyrgyz affiliate and organized the trip. Malli comes from UC Davis to collect germplasm for NPGS under USDA-ARS. Repec is a geneticist from Kyrgyz Agrarian University. Toktoralieve is vice rector of Osh University. Jomart is the all around interpreter and most helpful person.

September 11: Bishkek to Osh, passing through Too Ashuu Pass, Suusamyr valley and pass, along the Naryn river, past Toktogul reservoir, down out of the Tien Shan towards Ferghana valley. Arrived Osh at 1:00am

September 12: Climbed Sulaiman-Too in downtown Osh, a dramatic hill. From Osh to Gumkhana in the heart of walnut territory. Overwhelming quality and quantity of food and general hospitality.

September 13: First core samples in Arslanbob, then collected walnuts at Bazaar Korgon and Sovetskoe village with Malli

September 14: Visted Dendropark at Jalalabad forestry HQ, then to Kara-Bulak forestry research station

September 15: Kok-Janggak forestry research station, then more walnut cores at Kara-Alma forest.

September 16: Returned to Bishkek

Pictures from the 11th:

Healing Kyrgyz Style

2009-09-10T09:13:00.001+06:00

I awoke Tuesday morning feeling feverish, achy, and extremely tired, but now only two days later, I'm completely better. Normally, it takes a week to kick a bad cold or the flu. Prescription?

1. Sleep all day, covered in many warm blankets
2. Drink copious amounts of tea, preferably sweetened with medicinal honey or raspberry jam.
3. Eat meals as usual
4. Avoid cold at all cost

more pictures

2009-09-04T17:30:00.001+06:00

I was planning to post pictures on Facebook, but ran into technical problems. Uploading is slow on blogger, but works eventually. Enjoy

Issyk Kul

2009-09-04T16:49:00.001+06:00

Look up the Kyrgyz flag on Google images some time. The center represents the opening of a yurt--for smoke out and sun in. Rays emanate from this center like sunbeams, representing the forty original Kyrgyz tribes

Jomart Hudaibergenov told me about his flag while I was traveling with him and his family around Lake Issyk Kul last weekend. Issyk Kul is known as the pearl of Central Asia, and it deserves the appellation. For my part, I can't see how Kyrgyzstan itself cannot be the Jewel of Central Asia as well. The people, the mountains, the forests and flowers, lakes, sunsets, and plains--all are far more breathtaking and real than I had anticipated.

The people are the best part about Kyrgyzstan, however, especially the Hudaibergenovs. Jomart came to stay with my family this summer, but I never expected he and his family would repay me so richly upon my own foray to an unknown land. I especially appreciate the Kyrgyz sense of humor. They are always laughing, telling funny stories and jokes. Perhaps the best part for me is that apparently, even my lame jokes are worth laughing at. We have a grand time, even if my Russian is pitiful and my Kyrgyz even worse. I did manage to master "delicious" and "thank you" in Kyrgyz right away, absolutely necessitated, I thought, by the large amount of delectable food I was served upon my arvival (and ever since).

First Impressions

2009-08-28T11:31:00.000+06:00

Kyrgyzstan is beautiful. There are more trees in Bishkek than I expected. My host family is amazingly gracious.